The Chrysler NSG370 is a six-speed overdrive manual transmission sourced from Mercedes and built in the Stuttgart Transmission Plant. It is Jeep's first six-speed manual transmission and Chrysler's second after the Dodge Viper T-56. The NSG370 does not use standard gear oil for lubrication. This transmission utilizes bronze synchronizer collars resulting in sensitivity to lubricant make-up. Only a fluid characterized by Chrysler specification MS-9224 should be used in order to avoid premature wear or failure of internal parts as well as voiding the factory warranty.[2] Pennzoil Synchromesh is one such petroleum based lubricant. Common synthetic alternatives to the factory Mopar-branded conventional lubricant are Royal Purple's Synchromax and Red Line Oil's MTL. The synthetic alternatives often improve shifting performance while decreasing internal wear and noise. Transmissions from Jeep wranglers It features a 14mm hex fill plug on the passenger side and a 17mm hex drain plug on the bottom (with a strong magnet for attracting metal flakes).
A low transmission lubricant level is generally the result of a leak, inadequate lubricant fill or incorrect lubricant level check.
Rear transmission leaks will be from the oil seals or component mating surfaces.
Front transmission leaks will be from the front input shaft retainer seal. Lubricant may drip from the clutch housing after extended operation. If leak is severe, it may contaminate the clutch disc.
Lubricant level check can only be made when the vehicle is level and allowing the lubricant to set­tle for a minute before checking. This will ensure an accurate check and avoid an underfill or overfill con­dition.
HARD SHIFTING
Hard shifting is usually caused by low lubricant level, improper or contaminated lubricants. This will cause noise, excessive wear, internal bind, and hardshifting. Substantial lubricant leaks can result in gear, shift rail, synchro, and bearing damage. The first indications of component damage is usually hard shifting and noise.
Shift component damage, clutch adjustment, worn pressure plate or disc are also causes of increased shift effort. If clutch problem is advanced, gear clash during shifts can result. Worn or damaged synchro­nizer rings can cause gear clash when shifting into any forward gear. In some new or rebuilt transmis­sions, new synchro rings may tend to stick slightly causing hard or noisy shifts. In most cases, this con­dition will decline as the rings wear-in.
TRANSMISSION NOISE
Most manual transmissions make some noise dur­ing normal operation. Rotating gears generate a mild whine that is audible, but generally only at extreme speeds.
Severe, highly audible transmission noise is gener­ally the initial indicator of a lubricant problem. Insufficient, improper or contaminated lubricant will promote rapid wear of gears, synchros, shift rails, forks and bearings. The overheating caused by a lubricant problem, can also lead to gear and bearing damage.

 

Checking the "Check Engine" light on a Jeep equipped with the NSG370 6-speed manual transmission involves diagnosing the engine's performance issues, which may not be directly related to the gearbox itself. Here's a step-by-step guide to help you through the process, including tools needed, safety precautions, and common pitfalls to avoid. ### Tools Needed: 1. **OBD-II Scanner**: A code reader or scanner compatible with Jeep vehicles. 2. **Safety Gloves**: To protect your hands. 3. **Safety Glasses**: To protect your eyes from debris. 4. **Multimeter**: For electrical diagnostics if necessary. 5. **Basic Hand Tools**: Wrenches and screwdrivers for any needed repairs. 6. **Repair Manual**: Specific to your Jeep model for reference. ### Safety Precautions: 1. **Work in a Well-Ventilated Area**: Ensure there's adequate airflow to avoid inhaling exhaust fumes. 2. **Wear Safety Gear**: Always use gloves and safety glasses to protect yourself. 3. **Ensure the Vehicle is in Park**: If working with the engine running, ensure the vehicle is securely in park or neutral with the parking brake engaged. 4. **Disconnect the Battery**: If you need to access electrical components, disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid short circuits. ### Step-by-Step Process: #### Step 1: Verify the Check Engine Light - **Turn on the Ignition**: Without starting the engine, turn the key to the "ON" position. The Check Engine light should illuminate briefly and then turn off. - **Start the Engine**: If the light stays on or starts blinking, you need to diagnose the issue. #### Step 2: Retrieve Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) 1. **Connect the OBD-II Scanner**: Plug the scanner into the OBD-II port, usually located under the dashboard near the driver's seat. 2. **Turn on the Scanner**: Follow the scanner instructions to power it on and select the option to read codes. 3. **Record Any Codes**: Note down any trouble codes displayed. These codes will help you identify the issue. #### Step 3: Interpret the Codes - **Consult Your Repair Manual**: Look up the trouble codes in your repair manual or online to understand the meaning and potential causes. - **Common Codes**: Some common codes can relate to emissions, fuel system, ignition, or transmission issues. #### Step 4: Perform Basic Checks 1. **Check Engine Oil Level**: Low oil levels can trigger the Check Engine light. 2. **Inspect for Loose or Damaged Wires**: Look around the engine bay for any obvious issues such as frayed wires or disconnected sensors. 3. **Examine Hoses**: Ensure vacuum hoses are intact and not cracked or disconnected. #### Step 5: Clear Codes (If Necessary) - If youâve made repairs or want to reset the system, use the OBD-II scanner to clear the codes and turn off the Check Engine light. This will also reset the engine monitoring system. #### Step 6: Test Drive the Vehicle - After clearing the codes, take the vehicle for a short drive to see if the Check Engine light reappears. Monitor the engine's performance during this time. ### Common Pitfalls: 1. **Ignoring Codes**: Always check and address the codes instead of ignoring them. Ignoring a code can lead to more significant issues. 2. **Assuming Gearbox Issues**: The Check Engine light is often related to engine performance, not just the transmission. Donât jump to conclusions about the gearbox without proper diagnosis. 3. **Not Following Safety Precautions**: Ensure you follow safety guidelines to avoid injury while working on the vehicle. 4. **Clearing Codes Without Repairs**: Clearing the codes without diagnosing and repairing the underlying issue will only result in the light reappearing. ### Conclusion By following these steps, you should be able to effectively check and diagnose the Check Engine light on your Jeep with an NSG370 6-speed gearbox. If the light persists after troubleshooting, consider seeking professional assistance for more complex issues.

- Safety first
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting to avoid short circuits and accidental airbag deployment; use a 10 mm wrench or socket to loosen the terminal nut and pull the clamp off.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves to protect from dust, debris and sharp sheet metal edges.
- Work with the parking brake engaged and on level ground. If you need to crawl under the dash, make sure the steering wheel is locked and the car is stable.

- Overview of what you’re doing and why parts might need replacement
- The blower motor (HVAC fan) sits inside the HVAC housing under the passenger-side dash in most Jeeps. Symptoms that require replacement: no airflow, weak airflow on all speeds, loud/grinding/rubbing noise from under dash, burning smell, or blower only working on certain speeds (resistor problem).
- Common parts that may need replacement:
- Blower motor assembly — the electric motor and fan (squirrel-cage) together. Replace if noisy, not spinning, or draws no/low current.
- Blower motor resistor or blower motor control module — replace if blower works on only some speeds or not at all except high (depends on design).
- Electrical connector or wiring pigtail — replace if corroded or melted.
- Cabin air filter (if present) — replace if clogged as it reduces airflow.
- If the motor is seized, noisy, or has intermittent operation, replace the blower motor assembly; if motor is fine but speeds are wrong, replace resistor/control module.

- Tools you need (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Ratchet handle (1/4" and/or 3/8" drive)
- Description: A hand tool that turns sockets; available in 1/4" and 3/8" drive sizes. Use the smaller 1/4" for tight interior spaces and 3/8" for faster turning.
- How to use: Fit the correct socket onto the square drive, place over fastener, pull the ratchet in alternating short strokes to loosen or tighten.
- Socket set (metric: 7 mm, 8 mm, 10 mm at minimum)
- Description: Cylindrical attachments that fit onto the ratchet; sizes are measured across flats. Chrysler/Jeep often use 7–10 mm inside the dash.
- How to use: Select matching socket for bolt head, attach to ratchet or extension, turn counterclockwise to remove fasteners, clockwise to install.
- Socket extensions (2–6 inch)
- Description: Metal bars that extend reach between ratchet and socket.
- How to use: Snap between ratchet and socket when bolts are recessed or hard to reach.
- Torx bit set (T15, T20, T25 commonly)
- Description: Star-shaped bits used on many interior screws and blower motor screws.
- How to use: Insert the correct Torx into a bit holder or screwdriver, press firmly and turn; ensure full engagement to avoid stripping.
- Combination screwdrivers (Phillips and flat)
- Description: Manual screwdrivers for screws and prying small clips; Phillips for cross-head screws, flat for trim clips and prying.
- How to use: Match tip to screw head, apply straight pressure, turn to loosen. Use flat screwdriver carefully for trim to avoid damage.
- Trim panel removal tools (plastic pry tools)
- Description: Plastic levers designed to pry trim and clip panels without scratching or marring plastic.
- How to use: Slide under trim edge and pry gently to pop clips free; work evenly around panel.
- Needle-nose pliers
- Description: Long, narrow jaws for gripping small connectors, clips, and wires.
- How to use: Squeeze to grip and pull out stubborn clips or bend small tabs.
- Terminal puller / small pick tools
- Description: Thin hooked or pointed tools to release small locking tabs on electrical connectors.
- How to use: Insert tip to depress release tab and pull connector apart gently.
- Flashlight or headlamp
- Description: Bright directional light so you can see under the dash.
- How to use: Aim light into the workspace; a headlamp frees your hands.
- Multimeter (digital)
- Description: Measures voltage, continuity, and resistance to test whether power is reaching the blower motor or resistor.
- How to use: Set to DC volts to test for battery voltage at connector; set to continuity to check fuses and wires; probe connector pins carefully.
- Shop vacuum and small brush
- Description: For cleaning leaves and debris from blower housing and ductwork.
- How to use: Vacuum inside housing before removing motor if heavy debris present; brush out dust.
- Electrical contact cleaner
- Description: Solvent spray that cleans corrosion and improves electrical contact.
- How to use: Spray connectors and let dry before reconnecting.
- Zip ties and small electrical tape
- Description: For securing harnesses and preventing chafing.
- How to use: Use zip ties to fasten wires away from moving parts; snip excess tie.
- Replacement parts (purchase before starting)
- Description: New blower motor assembly (OEM or quality aftermarket), blower motor resistor or module, cabin air filter, and any harness pigtail if corroded.
- How to use: Compare part numbers and physical fit; have them on hand so you can swap immediately.
- Optional but useful: work gloves, magnetic tray for screws, small mirror, Dremel or penetrating oil
- Description: Dremel can remove stripped screws; penetrating oil helps free corroded fasteners; magnetic tray holds bolts.
- How to use: Use penetrating oil on rusty bolts, Dremel only if you must cut off a head as last resort.

- Quick check before removing parts
- Locate blower motor: passenger-side under dash behind glove box — remove glove box or lower trim to see HVAC housing.
- Check fuses: use multimeter or fuse puller to verify fuse for blower motor is OK.
- Test power at blower connector: with ignition on and blower control at high, probe the connector with multimeter to see if voltage (12 V) is present. If voltage is present but motor doesn’t run, motor is bad. If no voltage, problem could be resistor, relay, switch, or wiring.

- Step-by-step removal and replacement (beginner-friendly, keep hands steady)
- Remove battery negative terminal as the first action.
- Remove glove box and lower trim:
- Open glove box, remove screws across the top or inside lower jamb (use 7–8 mm socket or Torx depending on fasteners).
- Detach the glove box damper arm if present by sliding it off its pin (use needle-nose pliers if needed) and squeeze the glove box sides to clear stops; set the glove box aside.
- Pry off lower kick panel or trim pieces with plastic trim tools to expose the blower housing; keep all screws and clips in a magnetic tray.
- Locate blower motor housing and electrical connector:
- Identify the round blower motor housing with a circular motor flange held by screws (usually 3).
- Unplug the electrical connector by depressing the release tab and pulling straight off; use a pick if the tab is stiff.
- Remove blower motor screws:
- Use appropriate Torx bit or socket and extension to remove screws holding the blower motor housing to HVAC box. Keep screws in tray.
- If screws are rusty/stuck, apply penetrating oil and let sit 5–10 minutes; carefully work back and forth to loosen. If stripped, use a Dremel to cut a new slot or build up with welding/brazing only as experienced — as a beginner, try penetrating oil and different bit sizes first.
- Extract blower motor assembly:
- Pull the blower straight back out of the housing; it may hang on or snag on tabs — move it gently while turning slightly to clear.
- Inspect the fan (squirrel cage) for broken blades, debris, or obstructions.
- Inspect resistor/module and wiring:
- The resistor is often mounted on the housing or nearby; remove its screws and inspect for burn marks or melted plastic.
- Test the resistor and connector with the multimeter if unsure (continuity/resistance according to specs in service manual).
- Install new blower motor:
- Compare new motor to old to ensure matching flange and connector type.
- Insert new motor into housing, align screw holes, and hand-start screws to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten screws snugly with the ratchet — do not overtighten plastic threads (snug by hand plus a small turn).
- Reconnect electrical connector after spraying contact cleaner and letting dry if corrosion was present.
- Replace resistor/control module if needed:
- Install new resistor in same orientation, reinstall screws, and plug in connector.
- Reassemble trim and glove box:
- Reinstall lower trim panels and glove box in reverse order; reconnect the damper arm.
- Reconnect negative battery terminal and tighten nut with 10 mm socket/wrench.
- Test operation:
- Start vehicle or turn ignition to accessory, turn blower on through all speeds to confirm smooth operation and absence of noise.
- Verify no abnormal smells, and ensure no loose parts are rattling under dash.

- How to use the multimeter to test blower quickly
- Set to DC volts (20 V range).
- Backprobe blower connector (or use quick disconnect) with blower on high; one pin should read near battery voltage (~12 V).
- If you have voltage and motor doesn’t run when connected, motor is faulty.
- If no voltage, check fuse, switch, resistor, and wiring before replacing motor.

- What replacement parts you might buy and why
- Blower motor assembly (OEM or quality aftermarket unit)
- Why: Motor bearings wear out, brushes fail, or rotor jams; assembly swap is easiest and most reliable.
- How to choose: Match part number to VIN or vehicle application; compare electrical connector and mounting flange.
- Blower motor resistor or blower control module
- Why: Electrical resistance components fail causing loss of speed control or no operation at certain speeds.
- How to choose: Match to vehicle year/model or part number; some vehicles have a transistorized blower module instead of resistor.
- Harness pigtail or connector
- Why: Connectors can melt or corrode; replacing the pigtail prevents intermittent contact.
- How to choose: Purchase OEM harness or repair kit; ensure same pin configuration.
- Cabin air filter
- Why: A clogged filter reduces airflow; replace while you’re working in the HVAC system.

- Extra/optional tools and why they help
- Panel clip pliers: remove stubborn plastic clips without breaking them.
- Torque wrench (small): ensures correct torque on screws if you want factory torque; not strictly necessary on plastic parts—snug fit is fine.
- Dremel or screw extractor: only if screws are stripped or seized — use as last resort.
- Lift or creeper: more room to work if you prefer lying on your back. Not required for passenger side dash work.
- Factory service manual or repair guide: gives exact fastener sizes, wiring diagrams, and torque specs — recommended for precision.

- Common beginner mistakes and how to avoid them
- Don’t forget to disconnect battery first — prevents short circuits and accidental airbag issues.
- Avoid overtightening plastic screws — they strip easily; hand snug plus a small ratchet turn is enough.
- Keep track of all screws and clips in a tray so reassembly is straightforward.
- Test power at connector before assuming the motor is bad — you may only need a resistor or fuse.
- When fitting new motor, make sure fan wheel is not rubbing on housing; seat it evenly.

- Time and difficulty estimate
- Expect 1–2 hours for a beginner if bolts cooperate and you have correct tools and parts. Add time if screws are seized or if you must order parts.

- Final checks
- Verify blower works on all speeds after installation.
- Re-check that no tools or loose screws remain under the dash.
- Replace any broken trim clips and secure harnesses to prevent contact with moving parts.

- If you run into problems (quick troubleshooting)
- Motor doesn’t run but you have voltage: likely bad motor — replace motor.
- Motor runs only on one speed: likely resistor/module — replace resistor.
- No voltage at connector: check fuses, blower relay, switch, wiring harness, and ground.

- Quick parts list to buy before starting
- Correct-fit blower motor assembly for your Jeep model (match part number)
- Blower motor resistor / control module (if symptoms suggest)
- Cabin air filter
- A few replacement trim clips (optional)
- Contact cleaner, zip ties, and a small tube of penetrating oil

- Final safety reminder
- Reconnect battery after confirming everything is secure, and test. If you are uncomfortable at any point or encounter stripped/seized fasteners and no safe way to remove them, consider a professional technician.


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