### Control Arm Replacement on a Massey Ferguson MF20 Baler

#### Tools Needed:
1. **Wrench Set** (metric and imperial)
2. **Socket Set** (with extensions)
3. **Torque Wrench**
4. **Pry Bar**
5. **Jack and Jack Stands**
6. **Hammer**
7. **Bearing Puller/Slide Hammer** (if necessary)
8. **Safety Glasses**
9. **Gloves**
10. **Shop Towels**
11. **Lubricant/Cleaning Spray** (e.g., WD-40)

#### Safety Precautions:
1. **Wear Safety Gear**: Always wear safety glasses and gloves to protect your eyes and hands.
2. **Work on Level Ground**: Ensure the vehicle is on a flat surface to prevent rolling.
3. **Use Jack Stands**: Never rely solely on a jack; use jack stands to support the vehicle securely.
4. **Disconnect Battery**: If any electrical components are involved, disconnect the battery to avoid shorts.

#### Replacement Steps:

1. **Preparation**:
- Park the MF20 on a flat surface.
- Engage the parking brake and chock the wheels.

2. **Lift the Vehicle**:
- Use a jack to lift the front of the MF20.
- Place jack stands under the frame for safety.

3. **Remove the Wheel**:
- Use a wrench or socket to remove the lug nuts.
- Take off the wheel and set it aside.

4. **Access the Control Arm**:
- Locate the control arm connected to the chassis and the wheel hub.
- If necessary, remove any components obstructing access (e.g., brake calipers, sway bar links).

5. **Remove the Control Arm**:
- Identify the bolts securing the control arm to the chassis and the wheel hub.
- Use the appropriate socket to remove these bolts. If they are rusted, apply lubricant and let it sit before attempting removal.

6. **Inspect and Remove**:
- If the control arm has bushings or ball joints that are worn, you may need a bearing puller or slide hammer to remove them.
- Take note of the orientation of the control arm for correct installation of the new part.

7. **Install the New Control Arm**:
- Position the new control arm in place.
- Insert and hand-tighten the bolts that connect it to the chassis and wheel hub.

8. **Torque Specifications**:
- Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications (refer to the service manual for exact values).

9. **Reassemble Other Components**:
- Reattach any components that were removed for access (brake calipers, sway bar links).
- Ensure all connections are secure.

10. **Reinstall the Wheel**:
- Place the wheel back on the hub and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle off the jack stands.

11. **Final Torque**:
- With the vehicle on the ground, use the torque wrench to fully tighten the lug nuts to the manufacturer’s specifications.

12. **Reconnect Battery** (if disconnected).

#### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Not Using Jack Stands**: Always use jack stands when working under the vehicle.
- **Forgetting to Torque Bolts**: Not torquing bolts to specifications can lead to failures.
- **Ignoring Wear on Other Components**: Inspect bushings and joints for wear; replace if necessary.
- **Misalignment of New Control Arm**: Ensure the new part is aligned correctly before tightening.

#### Replacement Parts:
- Always use OEM or high-quality aftermarket parts for reliability.
- Replace any worn bushings or ball joints associated with the control arm during the process.

By following these steps carefully, you can successfully replace the control arm on a Massey Ferguson MF20 baler while minimizing risks and ensuring a proper installation.
rteeqp73

### Leaf Spring Replacement on Massey Ferguson MF20 Baler

#### Tools Needed:
1. **Wrenches/Sockets**: 9/16", 3/4", and 1" sizes.
2. **Pry Bar**: For leverage to remove old springs.
3. **Jack**: Hydraulic jack to lift the baler.
4. **Jack Stands**: To support the baler safely.
5. **Torque Wrench**: To ensure proper bolt torque when reassembling.
6. **Hammer**: For gently tapping components if necessary.
7. **Brake Cleaner**: To clean areas before reassembly.
8. **Safety Glasses**: To protect eyes from debris.
9. **Gloves**: For hand protection.

#### Safety Precautions:
- **Wear Safety Gear**: Always wear safety glasses and gloves.
- **Stabilize the Baler**: Ensure the baler is on a flat surface and use jack stands once lifted to prevent accidental collapse.
- **Disconnect Battery**: If applicable, to avoid any electrical issues during the process.

#### Step-by-Step Procedure:

1. **Preparation**:
- Park the MF20 on a flat, stable surface.
- Disconnect the battery to eliminate any electrical hazards.

2. **Lift the Baler**:
- Use a hydraulic jack to lift the rear of the baler.
- Place jack stands under the frame for added safety.

3. **Remove Wheels (if necessary)**:
- If access is restricted, remove the rear wheels using the appropriate socket.

4. **Locate the Leaf Springs**:
- Identify the leaf springs attached to the axle.

5. **Remove the Old Leaf Springs**:
- Using the wrench, remove the bolts securing the leaf springs to the axle and frame.
- Use a pry bar if needed to detach the springs from their mounting points.

6. **Inspect Other Components**:
- Check for any wear on the shackles, bushings, or mounting hardware. Replace if necessary.

7. **Install New Leaf Springs**:
- Position the new leaf springs in place. Ensure they align with the mounting points on the axle and frame.
- Insert bolts and hand-tighten them to hold the springs in place.

8. **Torque the Bolts**:
- Using a torque wrench, tighten the bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications (usually found in the service manual).

9. **Reattach Wheels (if removed)**:
- If you removed the wheels, reattach them and torque the lug nuts to the specified value.

10. **Lower the Baler**:
- Remove the jack stands and carefully lower the baler using the hydraulic jack.

11. **Reconnect the Battery**:
- Reconnect the battery if it was disconnected.

12. **Test Drive**:
- Perform a test run to ensure everything is functioning properly and there are no unusual noises.

### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Not Using Jack Stands**: Always use jack stands after lifting the baler to prevent accidents.
- **Over-Torquing Bolts**: Follow the specified torque settings to avoid stripping threads or damaging components.
- **Ignoring Wear on Other Components**: Inspect and replace worn shackles or bushings to ensure longevity.
- **Forgetting to Clean Surfaces**: Clean mounting surfaces before installation to ensure a secure fit.

### Replacement Parts:
- **Leaf Springs**: Ensure you have the correct replacement leaf springs for the MF20.
- **Shackles and Bushings**: Consider replacing these as well if they show wear.

By following these steps and precautions, you can successfully replace the leaf springs on a Massey Ferguson MF20 baler.
rteeqp73

- **Gather Necessary Tools and Materials**
- **Wrench Set**: For removing bolts and nuts. Use a combination of open-end and socket wrenches for various sizes.
- **Screwdriver Set**: For any screws that may need to be removed. Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers will cover most needs.
- **Fluid Container**: To catch old fluid during the flush. Use a clean, large enough container to hold at least 5-10 liters.
- **Transmission Fluid**: Replacement fluid specific to the Massey Ferguson MF20, typically a high-quality hydraulic fluid.
- **Funnel**: To pour new fluid without spilling. A funnel with a long spout is ideal for accessing tight spaces.
- **Shop Towels/Rags**: For cleaning up spills and wiping down components.

- **Safety Precautions**
- Ensure the baler is parked on a flat, stable surface.
- Turn off the engine and disconnect the battery to prevent accidental startup while working.

- **Locate the Transmission Fluid Drain Plug**
- Find the drain plug on the transmission oil pan of the MF20. It is usually located at the lowest point of the transmission housing.

- **Drain Old Transmission Fluid**
- Using the appropriate wrench, carefully loosen and remove the drain plug.
- Allow the old fluid to completely drain into the fluid container. This may take several minutes.
- Inspect the old fluid for metal shavings or debris, which could indicate wear or damage inside the transmission.

- **Inspect the Drain Plug and Gasket**
- Check the drain plug for any damage or wear; replace if necessary.
- Inspect the gasket or sealing material on the drain plug. If it’s worn, cracked, or missing, replace it to prevent leaks.

- **Replace the Drain Plug**
- Once the fluid has drained completely, replace the drain plug and tighten it securely with the wrench.

- **Add New Transmission Fluid**
- Locate the fill port for the transmission fluid, usually marked clearly.
- Use the funnel to pour new transmission fluid into the fill port. Check the owner's manual for the correct fluid type and quantity.
- Fill until the fluid reaches the recommended level, usually indicated on a dipstick or sight glass if equipped.

- **Check for Leaks**
- After adding fluid, start the baler and let it run for a few minutes. Check for any leaks around the drain plug and fill port.
- If leaks are present, turn off the engine and tighten the plugs or replace seals as needed.

- **Clean Up and Dispose of Old Fluid**
- Properly dispose of the old transmission fluid at a recycling center or hazardous waste facility. Do not pour it down the drain or into the environment.

- **Replacement Parts**
- Depending on the condition of the drain plug gasket, you may need to replace it. Gaskets can wear out over time, leading to leaks.
- If you found metal shavings in the old fluid, further inspection of the transmission may be necessary, and additional replacement parts could be required. Consult a professional if needed.

- **Final Check**
- After everything is reassembled and checked for leaks, ensure all tools are removed from the work area and the baler is safe to operate.
rteeqp73

1) Safety & prep
- Stop engine/tractor, remove key, disconnect PTO, let components cool. Chock wheels and wear gloves/eye protection.
- Theory: prevents burns, accidental machine movement or PTO engagement while you work.

2) Confirm symptom & locate leak/failure
- Symptoms: louder exhaust noise, soot/black deposits, hot spots, reduced engine/tractor power, or exhaust escaping before the tail pipe.
- Locate by visual inspection for holes, rust-through, cracked welds, loose clamps, damaged hangers, or blown gaskets. Follow the whole run from manifold flange to tailpipe.
- Theory: exhaust problems show where metal has thinned, joints have failed, or internal baffles collapsed causing backpressure or leakage.

3) Isolate the bad section
- Mark the failed area(s): gasket flange, mid-pipe, muffler body, tail pipe, hangers.
- Theory: pinning the failed component narrows the repair to the specific structural/flow problem (leak, restriction or broken mount).

4) Remove/loosen pipe sections (in order)
- Loosen and remove clamps and hanger brackets first so the assembly is supported.
- Unbolt manifold flange or flange to muffler; if studs are seized, apply penetrating oil and use care to avoid breaking studs (heat only if trained).
- If pipe is welded or corroded, cut the section free with saw or grinder at safe points to preserve flange areas if re-using.
- Theory: removing clamps and hangers relieves tension that causes cracks; cutting at good points preserves re-usable flanges and avoids stressing the next joint.

5) Inspect mating surfaces and hardware
- Check manifold flange, studs/bolts, gaskets, clamp surfaces, and hanger rubber isolators. Measure internal diameter for flow.
- Theory: a bad gasket or warped flange will leak even with a new pipe; worn hangers transmit vibration and cause premature failure.

6) Decide repair method
- Replace the damaged section with identical-diameter pipe/muffler and new gaskets/clamps, or weld a patch if corrosion area is small and remaining metal thickness is adequate.
- Prefer replacement sections or a full muffler assembly if internal baffles are collapsed or metal is thinned.
- Theory: restoring original cross-sectional area and smooth internal surfaces returns correct flow and prevents backpressure; new mounting hardware restores mechanical integrity.

7) Prepare parts & joints
- Deburr cut ends, clean flange faces, fit new gasket, select high-temp clamps or flanges. Use stainless or aluminized steel for longevity.
- If welding, use appropriate filler and avoid warping the manifold; if using clamps, ensure they’re rated for exhaust temps.
- Theory: clean, square joints seal better; correct material resists corrosion and maintains flow geometry.

8) Refit in reverse order with correct alignment
- Hand-tighten flanges/clamps first, fit hangers with rubber isolators, then tighten bolts/clamps to correct snugness without over-stressing: tighten progressively so joints seat evenly.
- Ensure no undue stress on manifold studs and that tailpipe clears any chassis or moving parts.
- Theory: proper alignment prevents bending loads that crack pipes; progressive tightening ensures even gasket compression and avoids leaks.

9) Test and adjust
- Start engine, observe for leaks at joints (look for soot or feel for escaping gas with a gloved hand at a safe distance). Listen for abnormal noise and recheck hanger movement after a short run.
- Re-torque as necessary after initial heat cycle.
- Theory: thermal cycling can change clamping force; testing confirms restored sealing and that backpressure/noise symptoms are resolved.

10) Why this fixes the fault (summary)
- Patch/replacement removes corroded/thinned metal or failed joints that allowed leaks and reduced flow.
- Restored internal passage and intact baffles eliminate abnormal backpressure that caused poor performance or smoke.
- New gaskets, clamps and hangers stop leakage and vibration—preventing re-cracking and maintaining seal under thermal cycling.
- Proper alignment and material choice increase service life and prevent recurrence.

Notes/precautions (brief)
- Avoid welding near combustible materials and protect the tractor’s seals and electricals.
- If manifold studs are broken or exhaust ties into tractor engine systems, consult a service manual or qualified mechanic for torque specs and potential engine-related diagnostics.
rteeqp73