### Control Arm Replacement on a Massey Ferguson MF20 Baler

#### Tools Needed:
1. **Wrench Set** (metric and imperial)
2. **Socket Set** (with extensions)
3. **Torque Wrench**
4. **Pry Bar**
5. **Jack and Jack Stands**
6. **Hammer**
7. **Bearing Puller/Slide Hammer** (if necessary)
8. **Safety Glasses**
9. **Gloves**
10. **Shop Towels**
11. **Lubricant/Cleaning Spray** (e.g., WD-40)

#### Safety Precautions:
1. **Wear Safety Gear**: Always wear safety glasses and gloves to protect your eyes and hands.
2. **Work on Level Ground**: Ensure the vehicle is on a flat surface to prevent rolling.
3. **Use Jack Stands**: Never rely solely on a jack; use jack stands to support the vehicle securely.
4. **Disconnect Battery**: If any electrical components are involved, disconnect the battery to avoid shorts.

#### Replacement Steps:

1. **Preparation**:
- Park the MF20 on a flat surface.
- Engage the parking brake and chock the wheels.

2. **Lift the Vehicle**:
- Use a jack to lift the front of the MF20.
- Place jack stands under the frame for safety.

3. **Remove the Wheel**:
- Use a wrench or socket to remove the lug nuts.
- Take off the wheel and set it aside.

4. **Access the Control Arm**:
- Locate the control arm connected to the chassis and the wheel hub.
- If necessary, remove any components obstructing access (e.g., brake calipers, sway bar links).

5. **Remove the Control Arm**:
- Identify the bolts securing the control arm to the chassis and the wheel hub.
- Use the appropriate socket to remove these bolts. If they are rusted, apply lubricant and let it sit before attempting removal.

6. **Inspect and Remove**:
- If the control arm has bushings or ball joints that are worn, you may need a bearing puller or slide hammer to remove them.
- Take note of the orientation of the control arm for correct installation of the new part.

7. **Install the New Control Arm**:
- Position the new control arm in place.
- Insert and hand-tighten the bolts that connect it to the chassis and wheel hub.

8. **Torque Specifications**:
- Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications (refer to the service manual for exact values).

9. **Reassemble Other Components**:
- Reattach any components that were removed for access (brake calipers, sway bar links).
- Ensure all connections are secure.

10. **Reinstall the Wheel**:
- Place the wheel back on the hub and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle off the jack stands.

11. **Final Torque**:
- With the vehicle on the ground, use the torque wrench to fully tighten the lug nuts to the manufacturer’s specifications.

12. **Reconnect Battery** (if disconnected).

#### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Not Using Jack Stands**: Always use jack stands when working under the vehicle.
- **Forgetting to Torque Bolts**: Not torquing bolts to specifications can lead to failures.
- **Ignoring Wear on Other Components**: Inspect bushings and joints for wear; replace if necessary.
- **Misalignment of New Control Arm**: Ensure the new part is aligned correctly before tightening.

#### Replacement Parts:
- Always use OEM or high-quality aftermarket parts for reliability.
- Replace any worn bushings or ball joints associated with the control arm during the process.

By following these steps carefully, you can successfully replace the control arm on a Massey Ferguson MF20 baler while minimizing risks and ensuring a proper installation.
rteeqp73

### Leaf Spring Replacement on Massey Ferguson MF20 Baler

#### Tools Needed:
1. **Wrenches/Sockets**: 9/16", 3/4", and 1" sizes.
2. **Pry Bar**: For leverage to remove old springs.
3. **Jack**: Hydraulic jack to lift the baler.
4. **Jack Stands**: To support the baler safely.
5. **Torque Wrench**: To ensure proper bolt torque when reassembling.
6. **Hammer**: For gently tapping components if necessary.
7. **Brake Cleaner**: To clean areas before reassembly.
8. **Safety Glasses**: To protect eyes from debris.
9. **Gloves**: For hand protection.

#### Safety Precautions:
- **Wear Safety Gear**: Always wear safety glasses and gloves.
- **Stabilize the Baler**: Ensure the baler is on a flat surface and use jack stands once lifted to prevent accidental collapse.
- **Disconnect Battery**: If applicable, to avoid any electrical issues during the process.

#### Step-by-Step Procedure:

1. **Preparation**:
- Park the MF20 on a flat, stable surface.
- Disconnect the battery to eliminate any electrical hazards.

2. **Lift the Baler**:
- Use a hydraulic jack to lift the rear of the baler.
- Place jack stands under the frame for added safety.

3. **Remove Wheels (if necessary)**:
- If access is restricted, remove the rear wheels using the appropriate socket.

4. **Locate the Leaf Springs**:
- Identify the leaf springs attached to the axle.

5. **Remove the Old Leaf Springs**:
- Using the wrench, remove the bolts securing the leaf springs to the axle and frame.
- Use a pry bar if needed to detach the springs from their mounting points.

6. **Inspect Other Components**:
- Check for any wear on the shackles, bushings, or mounting hardware. Replace if necessary.

7. **Install New Leaf Springs**:
- Position the new leaf springs in place. Ensure they align with the mounting points on the axle and frame.
- Insert bolts and hand-tighten them to hold the springs in place.

8. **Torque the Bolts**:
- Using a torque wrench, tighten the bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications (usually found in the service manual).

9. **Reattach Wheels (if removed)**:
- If you removed the wheels, reattach them and torque the lug nuts to the specified value.

10. **Lower the Baler**:
- Remove the jack stands and carefully lower the baler using the hydraulic jack.

11. **Reconnect the Battery**:
- Reconnect the battery if it was disconnected.

12. **Test Drive**:
- Perform a test run to ensure everything is functioning properly and there are no unusual noises.

### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Not Using Jack Stands**: Always use jack stands after lifting the baler to prevent accidents.
- **Over-Torquing Bolts**: Follow the specified torque settings to avoid stripping threads or damaging components.
- **Ignoring Wear on Other Components**: Inspect and replace worn shackles or bushings to ensure longevity.
- **Forgetting to Clean Surfaces**: Clean mounting surfaces before installation to ensure a secure fit.

### Replacement Parts:
- **Leaf Springs**: Ensure you have the correct replacement leaf springs for the MF20.
- **Shackles and Bushings**: Consider replacing these as well if they show wear.

By following these steps and precautions, you can successfully replace the leaf springs on a Massey Ferguson MF20 baler.
rteeqp73

- **Gather Necessary Tools and Materials**
- **Wrench Set**: For removing bolts and nuts. Use a combination of open-end and socket wrenches for various sizes.
- **Screwdriver Set**: For any screws that may need to be removed. Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers will cover most needs.
- **Fluid Container**: To catch old fluid during the flush. Use a clean, large enough container to hold at least 5-10 liters.
- **Transmission Fluid**: Replacement fluid specific to the Massey Ferguson MF20, typically a high-quality hydraulic fluid.
- **Funnel**: To pour new fluid without spilling. A funnel with a long spout is ideal for accessing tight spaces.
- **Shop Towels/Rags**: For cleaning up spills and wiping down components.

- **Safety Precautions**
- Ensure the baler is parked on a flat, stable surface.
- Turn off the engine and disconnect the battery to prevent accidental startup while working.

- **Locate the Transmission Fluid Drain Plug**
- Find the drain plug on the transmission oil pan of the MF20. It is usually located at the lowest point of the transmission housing.

- **Drain Old Transmission Fluid**
- Using the appropriate wrench, carefully loosen and remove the drain plug.
- Allow the old fluid to completely drain into the fluid container. This may take several minutes.
- Inspect the old fluid for metal shavings or debris, which could indicate wear or damage inside the transmission.

- **Inspect the Drain Plug and Gasket**
- Check the drain plug for any damage or wear; replace if necessary.
- Inspect the gasket or sealing material on the drain plug. If it’s worn, cracked, or missing, replace it to prevent leaks.

- **Replace the Drain Plug**
- Once the fluid has drained completely, replace the drain plug and tighten it securely with the wrench.

- **Add New Transmission Fluid**
- Locate the fill port for the transmission fluid, usually marked clearly.
- Use the funnel to pour new transmission fluid into the fill port. Check the owner's manual for the correct fluid type and quantity.
- Fill until the fluid reaches the recommended level, usually indicated on a dipstick or sight glass if equipped.

- **Check for Leaks**
- After adding fluid, start the baler and let it run for a few minutes. Check for any leaks around the drain plug and fill port.
- If leaks are present, turn off the engine and tighten the plugs or replace seals as needed.

- **Clean Up and Dispose of Old Fluid**
- Properly dispose of the old transmission fluid at a recycling center or hazardous waste facility. Do not pour it down the drain or into the environment.

- **Replacement Parts**
- Depending on the condition of the drain plug gasket, you may need to replace it. Gaskets can wear out over time, leading to leaks.
- If you found metal shavings in the old fluid, further inspection of the transmission may be necessary, and additional replacement parts could be required. Consult a professional if needed.

- **Final Check**
- After everything is reassembled and checked for leaks, ensure all tools are removed from the work area and the baler is safe to operate.
rteeqp73

Below is a concise, no-nonsense beginner-level guide to diagnosing and repairing the hydraulic clutch on a Massey‑Ferguson MF20 baler. It includes the mechanical theory, every component you’ll encounter, common failure modes, a complete step-by-step repair procedure, bleeding and testing, and safety tips. Follow exactly, use proper PPE, and consult the MF20 shop manual for any model-specific torque numbers and parts codes.

Why this repair is needed — the theory (short)
- Purpose: the hydraulic clutch transfers drive from the gearbox/PTO to the baler’s internal drive components by pressing friction plates together with hydraulic force. When hydraulic pressure is applied the clutch engages; when pressure is released, springs separate the plates and the drive stops.
- Basic physics: hydraulic pressure acting on a piston creates a linear force (Pascal’s law). That piston compresses a stack of friction and steel plates. Friction between plates transfers torque. If pressure or friction is insufficient, the clutch slips. If seals leak or plates are worn/contaminated, engagement fails or is erratic.
- Analogy: think of the clutch plates as a stack of pancakes: press them firmly and the top pancake moves with the bottom; if the stack is oily, worn or the hand doesn’t press hard enough, the stack slips.

What the system looks like and every component you’ll see
Note: MF20 arrangements vary (tractor-remote actuation vs baler-mounted reservoir); the components below cover typical MF small‑baler hydraulic clutch systems.

Hydraulic components
- Hydraulic reservoir (tank) — holds hydraulic fluid. May be on the baler or supplied from the tractor remotes.
- Supply line (high-pressure hose) — brings pressurized oil to the clutch actuator.
- Return/vent line — returns oil to reservoir from the clutch when pressure is released; vent keeps air out.
- Control valve / tractor spool valve — operator control that sends pressure to the baler; sometimes integral to tractor, not baler.
- Pressure relief/check valve (if fitted) — protects the system from overpressure and/or prevents backflow.
- Bleeder (bleed nipple) — small screw to purge air from the actuator.

Mechanical clutch components (inside clutch housing)
- Clutch housing/case — outer shell that contains plates and piston.
- Clutch piston (actuator piston) — hydraulic piston that moves axially to compress plates.
- Piston seals / O‑rings — seals between piston and housing; keep oil from leaking and build pressure.
- Return springs (spring pack) — push piston back to disengaged position when pressure releases.
- Friction plates (lined plates) — lined with friction material; absorb slip and transfer torque when pressed.
- Steel plates (drive plates) — smooth plates that alternate with friction plates.
- Pressure plate / backing plate — transmits piston force through the plate stack.
- Snap rings/retaining rings / locating pins — hold stack in place and locate components.
- Shaft hub / splined hub — transmits torque from plate pack to the gearbox/input shaft.
- Cover bolts / housing bolts — fasteners securing clutch cover to housing.

Tools and supplies you’ll need
- Basic hand tools: sockets, wrenches (metric), screwdrivers, snap-ring pliers, hammer and drift, torque wrench.
- Hydraulic hose wrenches, line plugs, rags, drain pan.
- Seal kit (piston seal set), new friction plates and steel plates (replace as pair or as manufacturer recommends), new springs if worn.
- Replacement hydraulic hoses if cracked/bulging.
- Hydraulic oil (type per MF spec — use tractor/baler manual).
- Clean solvent, brake/clutch cleaner, non‑marring brushes.
- Bleeding equipment (clear hose, collection bottle) and possibly a hydraulic pressure gauge.
- Safety: gloves, eye protection, jack stands or blocks, PTO lockout, wheel chocks.

Common failure modes — what can go wrong
- External hydraulic leak (hoses, fittings, reservoir) — no pressure reached to engage clutch.
- Internal seal failure (piston seals) — piston cannot build or hold pressure; clutch slips or won’t engage.
- Air in hydraulic system — spongy, slow or incomplete engagement; intermittent operation.
- Worn/contaminated friction plates — glazing, reduced friction → slipping and overheating.
- Warped or scored steel plates / pressure plate — poor contact, vibration, localized wear.
- Weak/broken return springs — clutch stays partially engaged or drags.
- Relief valve stuck or wrong setting — insufficient or blocked pressure.
- Pump/tractor hydraulic supply insufficient — low flow/pressure from tractor remote.
- Mechanical damage to splines/hub — noisy engagement or inability to transmit torque.

Diagnosis steps (quick checks)
1. Safety first: park baler on level ground, chock wheels, disconnect PTO and/or drive, shut off tractor, relieve hydraulic pressure (cycle controls), wear PPE.
2. Visual inspection: look for fluid leaks at hoses, fittings, reservoir; check oil level and condition (dark/burnt smelling = overheated clutch).
3. Operation check: with baler stationary and safe, apply and release clutch controls; note response time, any sponginess, noises, or slipping under load.
4. Pressure check (recommended): install a hydraulic pressure gauge at the clutch supply port (or at the tractor remote) and check pressure against spec during engagement. Low pressure indicates leak/valve/pump problem.
5. Plate slip test: under controlled light load, if engine revs up and baler drive doesn’t follow, clutch is slipping.

Repair procedure — step-by-step (detailed)
Preparations and safety
- Remove spark plugs (if any engine on baler) or ensure engine systems are disabled; remove PTO drive, disconnect battery on tractor if desired.
- Block and secure the baler so nothing can move while you work. Label hoses before removal if multiple lines exist.
- Relieve hydraulic pressure by cycling controls and loosening fittings gradually at reservoir to let pressure down.

1) Drain and isolate fluid
- Place drain pan under clutch housing and disconnect supply/return hoses near the clutch to drain oil into pan. Cap/plug lines quickly to minimize contamination.
- If using tractor hydraulic, be prepared to plumb and cap hoses or use quick disconnect blanks.

2) Remove clutch cover and assembly
- Remove housing/cover bolts evenly (in star pattern) to avoid warping.
- Keep track of bolt locations and any shims or spacers.
- Carefully slide the cover off; the clutch plate pack and piston will be exposed.
- Note orientation and order of plates as you remove them — photograph or lay out in order.

3) Disassemble plate pack and inspect parts
- Remove alternating friction and steel plates, springs, snap rings one by one.
- Inspect friction plates for thickness, glazing, heat spots, burned odor. If friction lining is worn beyond spec or glazed, replace.
- Inspect steel plates for scoring, wear, or warpage (use straight edge). Replace if excessively scored or warped.
- Inspect return springs for length and free height; replace if any are weak or broken.
- Inspect hub splines and housing bore for wear or scoring.

4) Remove piston and seals
- Remove retaining snap ring and gently tap piston out (use a wooden dowel or soft drift so you don’t damage the piston face).
- Inspect piston face for pitting, scoring, or heat marks. Clean thoroughly.
- Remove old piston seals/O-rings from housing and piston. Inspect grooves for burrs or damage.

5) Thorough cleaning
- Clean inside of housing, piston faces, and plates with approved solvent. Remove all old oil, dirt, and debris. Do not use compressed air on oil-contaminated parts without containment.
- Clean hydraulic lines or replace if they’re aged or show damage.

6) Replace seals, plates and springs
- Fit new piston seals and O-rings (use a light film of hydraulic oil to lubricate; do not use grease).
- Replace friction plates and steel plates in matched sets. Install new springs if included in kit or if old springs were weak.
- Ensure plates are oriented correctly — some friction plates have directional marks; some steel plates have chamfers — reinstall in original order.

7) Reinstall piston and cover
- Insert piston carefully, compress springs as needed, and set retaining ring properly in groove.
- Replace any housing gaskets or seals on cover mating surfaces.
- Reinstall cover and torque bolts evenly in a star pattern to the manufacturer torque (if manual unavailable, tighten to a firm and even pattern but avoid over‑torqueing).

8) Reconnect hydraulic lines & fill/prime system
- Reconnect supply and return hoses, ensuring no kinks and correct line routing.
- Fill reservoir with clean specified hydraulic fluid. If tractor supplies oil, ensure hydraulic system is at correct level and filters are clean.

9) Bleeding the hydraulic clutch (detailed)
- Air pockets cause spongy operation — bleeding is essential.
- Method A — Tractor/pressure bleed:
- Attach a clear plastic hose to the clutch bleeder nipple and put the other end into a bottle partially filled with fluid (to prevent drawing air back in).
- Open bleeder ~1/4 turn.
- With an assistant, cycle the tractor hydraulic control to apply pressure to the clutch repeatedly (or use a hand pump if fitted).
- Watch the hose for air bubbles; when steady stream of clean fluid without bubbles returns, tighten bleeder.
- Cycle several times to seat plates.
- Method B — Gravity/bleed from highest point:
- If plumbing allows, open bleeds and let gravity purge slowly; top up reservoir as fluid flows.
- Tip: keep reservoir full during bleeding. Work slowly to avoid drawing new air into system.
- Confirm by feeling engagement firmness and observing pressure gauge (if used).

10) Final checks and break-in
- Test engage/disengage with baler unloaded first. Listen for odd noises; check for leaks.
- Reinstall PTO and test under light load. Monitor for slipping (engine rev increase without drive) and smell (no burnt odor).
- Break-in new plates by running several light-load cycles: repeatedly engage for short intervals to bed in the friction material.
- Recheck fluid level after warm-up and again after first use.

Troubleshooting after reassembly
- Still slipping: either plates are wrong type/installed incorrectly, piston seals not sealing, or system pressure is low — recheck pressure with gauge; inspect for leaks.
- Spongy/slow engagement: air still in system — re-bleed.
- No movement/never engages: stuck piston, blocked line, or faulty control valve. Remove cover and check piston freedom.
- Leak at piston area: piston seal installed backwards, damaged groove, or wrong seal size.

Common pitfalls and practical tips
- Never mix dirty fluid or different fluid types without flushing system — contamination ruins new seals and plates quickly.
- Replace friction plates in matched sets. Don’t mix used and new plates.
- Don’t reuse old O-rings/seals. They’ll leak under pressure.
- Keep everything clean during reassembly. Small grit in hydraulic passages causes fast wear.
- Photograph the plate order before removal. Orientation matters.
- Don’t overtighten cover bolts; you can distort the housing and bind the piston.
- If the piston face is scored past salvage, you may need a service remanufactured piston or replacement housing.
- If hydraulic pressure from the tractor is insufficient, repair or test tractor remotes first before blaming the baler clutch.

Safety warnings (must-dos)
- Always relieve hydraulic pressure before disconnecting lines. High-pressure oil can inject into skin — seek immediate medical care for fluid injection injuries.
- Lock out PTO and secure the baler; do not rely on jacks alone — use proper stands/blocks.
- Wear eye protection and gloves; hydraulic fluid and solvents can be hazardous.
- Dispose of old hydraulic oil and contaminated rags properly per local regulations.

Parts to order (typical)
- Clutch friction plate set, steel plate set, piston seal kit (O-rings), snap rings, return springs (if sold separately), clutch cover gasket, hydraulic hose(s) if needed, hydraulic oil per spec.

Final notes
- If you encounter severe scoring, warped plates, or housing damage, consider a reman or professional shop — machining and hard-surface repairs may be required.
- For torque specs, hydraulic pressures, and exact part numbers for the MF20, consult the official Massey‑Ferguson MF20 service manual. The manual also shows exploded views critical for exact reassembly.

No extra chatter — follow the steps, respect safety, use new seals/plates, bleed thoroughly, and test progressively under load.
rteeqp73